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I visited the gorgeous walkable European city where pints cost as little as 4

This city break is one of those places where you can do everything on foot perfect for soaking up the history, incredible food and affordable drinks

[Aerial view of Pretoria Fountain in Palermo, Sicily, Italy. Piazza Pretoria.]

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This city break is one of those places where you can do everything on foot perfect for soaking up the history, incredible food and affordable drinks(Image: FilippoBacci via Getty Images)

When it comes to holiday destinations, we in the UK are truly spoilt for choice, with continental Europe practically on our doorstep. It's precisely why people travel from the far corners of the globe to settle here - drawn by the unrivalled access to a continent they might otherwise never explore.

Each year, my mum and I jet off together for a blissful and adventurous getaway, with me desperate to return to Italy while Mum was keen to add a fresh destination to her ever-growing list. After minimal deliberation, we agreed on Sicily as our next adventure - a magnificent fusion of rich history, sweeping coastline and an irresistible array of regional dishes we'd yet to sample.

Just over half of our trip was spent in the island's second largest city, Catania, while the remaining days were whiled away exploring the capital, Palermo. It was the perfect blend of relaxation and excitement, indulgence and discovery - precisely what we both needed.

[Palermo Cathedral in Sicily, Italy]

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No one does cathedrals quite like the Sicilians(Image: Getty)

I'm a huge fan of a city break, and Palermo delivers on every front, while also offering easy access to the rest of the island - ideal for those seeking respite from the tourist crowds. The Sicilian capital is one of those rare cities where public transport becomes completely unnecessary, as virtually everything is within comfortable walking distance.

Just be prepared to dart between buildings for shade from the blazing sun. If you're fond of impressive churches, atmospheric theatres and magnificent palazzos, Palermo has them in abundance, reports the Express.

Cattedrale di Palermo, Palazzo dei Normanni, and Teatro Massimo di Palermo are traditional must-sees, but the authentic city reveals itself amongst the twisting side streets and cobblestone lanes.

Architectural treasures are plentiful, though some might suggest they merely mask the island's more recent violent past. We'd been advised beforehand against mentioning the mafia while in the city, yet one of the most compelling aspects of my visit was exploring the No Mafia Memorial.

[Piazza dei Quattro Canti]

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Slip into one of the many cobbled side streets to find a trove of hidden Sicilian treasure(Image: Getty)

While the activities and offences of the mafia and criminal gangs are portrayed in films and television, nothing truly prepares you for the overwhelming number of photographs documenting the harsh reality. The connection between the corrupt powerbrokers and sinister underworld was undeniable.

You're left bewildered by just how much violence occurred. Nevertheless, this free museum provides a perspective you simply won't discover on screen.

Naturally, all the architecture and heritage makes Palermo undeniably striking, yet the primary attraction for us was the regional food. Endless servings and dishes of fresh seafood and handmade pasta represents my gastronomic paradise.

You absolutely cannot skip a visit to Mercato Ballar, a hidden alleyway brimming with stall after stall of meat, fish, vegetables, cheese, and fruit; whatever you're after, Mercato Ballar stocks it. The market is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

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Mercato Ballar is the place to be for trying out authentic Sicilian street food(Image: Ellen Jenne)

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The Zuppe Di Mare at Osteria Villena is a must for foodies(Image: Ellen Jenne)

It's a feast for all the senses, with a dazzling array of colours, aromas and sounds. It can be incredibly overwhelming, with vendors desperately trying to hawk their wares or entice you into their eatery.

Instead, try a comforting bowl of Zuppe Di Mare at Osteria Villena on Via Maqueda, a seafood stew generously packed with calamari, prawns, mussels and cod, all brought together with a San Marzano sauce. It's salty, warming, satisfying and absolutely divine. I could have happily devoured several bowls.

For pasta lovers who still crave that seafood fix, the Tonnarelli Mare Mare is an absolute must. Yes, it may appear to be packed with tourists, but Osteria Villena is clearly doing something right, as every lunch and dinner sitting was completely full.

However, no visit to Sicily is truly complete without sampling one of its most abundant fish: swordfish.

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For a crisp - and cheap - glass of Sicilian wine, visit Enotequa on Via Maqueda(Image: Ellen Jenne)

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Palermo is a haven for foodies(Image: Ellen Jenne)

Think of it as a white fish with the texture of a tuna steak when cooked, but with a distinctive flavour you simply won't get from eating the likes of cod or haddock. Best enjoyed served with caponata.

If you enjoy a spot of people watching, my favourite haunt was Enotequa, a dark and atmospheric wine bar serving up crisp Sicilian wines in all varieties, 7 (5.99) Aperol spritzes, and a meat and cheese board to round it all off for just 30 (approximately 25) for two people. If spritzes aren't your cup of tea, a bottle or pint of beer will set you back between 4 to 5 (3.42 to 4.28), according to Numbeo. London could never!

And make sure you sample a cannolo, packed with fresh ricotta cream and topped with as many nuts, chocolates and glace fruit as your heart desires.

Palermo is a paradise for anyone seeking a getaway that's not too far from home. It boasts glorious weather, stunning architecture, and incredible food to match. Despite only spending two days there, I could quite easily have stayed far longer.

I'm still daydreaming about that seafood stew... and the spritzes, naturally.

[Ellen Jenne]

Ellen Jenne

Ellen is a Senior Under 35 Writer on the Spare Time team. Having started at MyLondon in 2021 as a Life Writer covering What's On content in London, she moved to the U35 Network team in 2023 specialising in content for the 18 to 35 demographic. Since 2024, she has been on the Spare Time team, creating content to increase the under-35 demographic. Topics covered includes food, travel, shopping, life hacks, gardening, as well as trending and lifestyle content, including TV, film and books.

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